Did you know that footwear in India is a captivating blend of tradition, culture, craftsmanship, and modern fashion trends? From the historic leather sandals of Kolhapur to the colorful Juttis of Punjab, and from everyday chappals to the latest sneaker styles, Indian footwear mirrors the nation’s diversity and dynamic fashion scene. In fact, feet are seen as sacred and are often revered, yet they are also considered the humblest part of the body, symbolizing humility and submission. This dual sentiment is rooted in the idea that showing respect to someone’s feet is a way of surrendering one’s ego.
The Jutti: A Cultural Icon
Jutti, also spelled Jooti, is an Urdu word meaning shoe. From Mughal emperor Akbar to Bollywood star Alia Bhatt, Juttis have been a staple in Indian fashion for nearly 450 years. Their versatility and innovative designs, combined with a wide range of fabrics, colors, and styles, make these decorative slip-ons a favorite. Juttis beautifully showcase local cultural diversity, ethnicity, and craftsmanship, making them a beloved choice in both traditional and modern fashion.
The Origin of Juttis
Jutti and Nagra originated in Punjab and Rajasthan during the Mughal Era and were worn by both men and women of the Rajput and Mughal clans, mainly among the upper class.
Originally made from leather, some versions were decorated with intricate zari gota work using gold and silver threads, while others featured precious stones and jewels. These shoes are crafted by various artisans: chamars who process the hide, rangaars who color and paint the juttis, and mochis who stitch and finish them.
Nagra is a type of jutti with a soft, rounded tip, similar to a ballerina shoe, inspired by Mughal and Rajput styles. While juttis typically have M-shaped curves, nagras have a rounded toe. The designs of juttis and nagras are diverse, including geometric patterns, mirror work, floral motifs, phulkari, ghunghroo embellishments, printed designs, painted details, and more. This wide range of styles and craftsmanship offers endless options to choose from.
The Punjabi Juttis
Much like the Mojaris of medieval India, Punjabi juttis have their own distinct charm with covered heels and a flat, round upper. These shoes beautifully complemented the opulent Mughal fashion, featuring intricate zardozi embroidery with gold and silver threads, as well as embellishments like gems, pompoms, tassels, sequins, and beads. You can see their elegance captured in numerous Mughal miniatures. Over time, juttis became a staple in everyday wear.
Today, juttis have carved out a special place in the Indian fashion scene, retaining their traditional form without significant changes. They’re perfect for casual, formal, and cultural occasions alike. One of the most famous styles is the tilla jutti, synonymous with the city of Patiala. This style is known for its embroidery with metallic thread, traditionally made of real gold and silver. Thanks to the ongoing royal patronage of the arts and leather craftsmanship in Punjab, juttis have become an integral part of Punjabi culture.
One of the reasons this 450-year-old footwear has stood the test of time is the adaptability of skilled artisans to evolving trends and needs in the Indian fashion industry. Unlike most shoes, juttis are unique in that they don’t have a right or left distinction—they gradually mold to the shape of your feet. Besides their ergonomic design, they’re lightweight and handcrafted. Even with the surge in machine-based production, juttis still require some hand-stitching, particularly for the inner lining, preserving their traditional craftsmanship.
The Modern Revival
While Punjabi Juttis are steeped in tradition, their charm now reaches far beyond cultural events and traditional outfits. Recently, there’s been an exciting revival of interest in these classic shoes. It’s not just people of Punjabi heritage who adore them—fashion enthusiasts and trendsetters around the world have embraced Punjabi Juttis as a versatile and stylish accessory.
The Global Appeal of Juttis
As the global fashion scene evolves, traditional Indian footwear like Juttis is gaining more attention. People are increasingly interested in sustainable fashion and learning about different cultures, which gives Indian footwear a chance to shine even more.
Brands and designers are getting creative, mixing traditional Indian styles with modern fashion trends. This means Juttis and other classic designs are becoming more popular and accessible to a wider audience. It’s an exciting time for these beautiful, handcrafted shoes as they find their place in contemporary fashion.
Success Stories: Brands Making an Impact
Several brands have successfully introduced juttis to the Fair Trade Global Products, each with its unique approach and style. Some noteworthy examples include:
Fizzy Goblet
Fizzy Goblet is a popular Indian brand that has made a mark in the international market with its innovative and stylish juttis. Many Indian brands with global appeal thrive on native craftsmanship and the drive to modernize it. Laksheeta Govil, the driving force behind the footwear label saw potential in the humble juttis, calling them “the original ballerina shoe of the world.” Her journey to launching her own label is both inspiring and relatable. She started by hand-painting her own footwear in college, then worked with Lecoanet Hemant, where she learned the importance of design details. Her experience with Puma, a global footwear brand, gave her the confidence to embark on her own design journey. Now, just two years into retail, Govil’s designs are instantly recognizable and a favorite among celebrities, worn all over the country.
A truly special moment for the brand was designing the wedding favors for Sonam Kapoor Ahuja. They created an ivory and gold shoe called ‘Aisha,’ perfectly matching the theme of her wedding, and these were gifted to her closest guests. Additionally, both Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas wore metallic juttis during their wedding festivities, while most of Kajal Aggarwal’s wedding looks were completed with embroidered juttis. Loyal patrons like Anushka Sharma, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Janhvi Kapoor, and Sara Ali Khan have significantly boosted the label’s visibility, contributing to its meteoric success. The brand focuses on customer satisfaction and building loyalty, as evidenced by their highly engaged Instagram audience of over 430,000 followers and a dedicated community of online users.
Other Traditional Indian Footwear
While the Jutti is undoubtedly the most famous, Indian footwear encompasses a rich variety of styles, each with its own unique history and cultural significance. Here’s a look at some other traditional types. In fact, India’s footwear history goes back thousands of years. Ancient scriptures and epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata mention footwear, showing its importance even back then. Traditionally, Indian footwear was handmade, with each region creating its own unique styles and techniques. So, let’s dive into the world of Indian footwear, exploring its historical roots, cultural significance, and modern trends.
Paduka
Paduka or Khadau is an ancient type of Indian footwear with origins that are hard to pinpoint. It is similar to the Charan Paduka of Shri Ram. According to legend, Paduka or Khadau were brought to Ayodhya and placed on the throne during Shri Ram’s exile. The term Upanah, mentioned in ancient scripts, also refers to footwear. In fact, references to Khadau appear in historical texts from the 6th and 7th centuries.
Paduka is usually made from wood, silver, or ivory and shaped like a fish or the wearer’s feet. It has a sole with a post and knob between the big and second toe, often intricately decorated for special occasions or religious offerings. Even everyday people wore Khadau made from fine teak, ebony, or sandalwood, reflecting their status.
Mojari and Khussa
The most popular type of jutti is Mojari or Khussa, which originated in Rajasthan and was worn by Maharajas and kings during the Mughal period. Mojari or Khussa looks similar to traditional jutti footwear.
This footwear doesn’t differentiate between left and right shoes and features an extended toe curl, especially popular with men. Mojari has also become popular worldwide, leading to many different styles. There’s a high demand for Mojari, with varieties like Jalsa, Kasuri, Salem Shahi, and more.
Kolhapuri Chappal
The name Kolhapuri Chappal comes from Kolhapur, where these sandals originated. They were first made in the 13th century, supported by King Bijjala and his Prime Minister, Basavanna. Later, the Saudhager family created a lighter version with flaps, which remains a key part of their design today.
Kolhapuri Chappals are handcrafted from thick buffalo skin and dyed with vegetable dyes, making them extremely durable and perfect for rough terrain.
These sandals have a simple, subtle look that goes well with Indian outfits and some Indo-Western styles. Today, Kolhapuri Chappals come in many designs, featuring metallic colors, zari gota work, mirror work, and more.
Pastoral Footwear
In Gujarat, the Bharwads and Rabaris are known for their unique footwear, called ‘Rabari na lagna joda’ or ‘Bharwadi Desi joda,’ depending on the community.
These shoes are crafted by the Gohil community using layers of vegetable-tanned leather. They are carefully sewn together by hand, creating sturdy and rugged footwear. The shoes are relatively heavy because they use 4 to 5 layers of leather without thinning it. Their durability and distinctive style make them popular both in India and abroad.
Conclusion
The allure of the Jutti and other traditional Indian footwear is a testament to the rich cultural heritage and artisanal skill that define Indian fashion. As these traditional styles gain popularity in the global market, they offer a glimpse into the vibrant and diverse world of Indian craftsmanship. Additionally, the rise of Indian footwear represents an exciting opportunity for cultural exchange and appreciation. By embracing these traditional styles, you can not only enhance your wardrobes but also connect with a rich and storied tradition that spans centuries.
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